A few years ago I went to Morocco, my first trip to Africa. On my second flight to the Continent – a year ago – the man sitting a row in front of me said of Morocco, “yeah, but that’s not really Africa.” The sentiment is so common that even I, a foreigner, shrugged when I said “Morocco” as if to confess the crime before even being accused. For many, including the man sitting a row ahead of me, Sub-Saharan Africa is Africa, the rest is just details.
The flight was to Ghana. The trip was to Kokrobité, a town just west of the capital Accra, and the Kokrobitey Institute, which was founded in the 90s and continues to be run by Renée Neblett – Auntie Renée – an irrepressible woman with the charm of a million charmers, and the style to match.