To say that Life is anything less than mostly chance and surprise would be to shortchange the rangy bastard. He’s got a presence, ever, that inspires, provokes, and constipates sometimes too. More than that, he thrives at every moment with the impatience of an electron, the memory of a pulled tooth, and the permanence of a breath.
We admire surfers because they embrace something of all this and call it a lifestyle — a profession for some. For others of us there can be the touch of grace upon the wall of a friend’s apartment, or fresh bagels, or laughter and sorrow.